The burst of lightning from this past week’s storm brought back memories of previous wildfire years, including the last year. Brock Landers uses his local sommelier knowledge to share his thoughts regarding “smoke taint” and Napa Valley Wines.
Just when you think it’s safe to go back in the water… lightning strikes & thunder roars, giving locals the chills on the eve of 9/11…
As temperatures spike, our friends to the north had a devastating blaze in Lake Tahoe, burning through sacred land from our treasured Kirkwood down to the state lines of South Lake and beyond.
This total recall triggers PTSD from 2017 & 2020 — Among the most devastating years for wildfires in California history.
Remembering that it was this time last year that I found myself assisting in extinguishing a blaze alongside San Jose‘s Fire Station #9 “Animal House,” while the hero’s saved several historic properties pushed up against Spring mountain ⛰
Unfortunately, these events (fire season) in Napa Valley align with Veraison when berries are susceptible to smoke taint, primarily in the skins.
It goes without saying that anything that ends in taint is less than ideal… heavy smoke infiltrates ripening berries & bound phenols partially released through fermentation compound flaws over time.
It may not seem like it in Napa… but good wine & expensive wine are not exclusively related. Napa seems to justify $1 for every % of Cabernet Sauvignon, and $100 mid-range is becoming a standard.
Most enthusiasts, wine snobs, advocates, cork dorks, wineries, and handicappers would agree that 2020 may not be your best bet.
But honestly, who cares what they think as there are only two wines that matter: the one you are enjoying or the one you are not!
Supply and demand, amongst a few other factors like marketing, inventory & storage, contribute to the cost.
Similar to most collectible art, these wines from high-quality wine-producing regions are age-worthy. You can invest, ingest, or both!
Realistically, very few true stewards of the land are producing a 2020 vintage for Bordeaux varietals, most notably Cabernet Sauvignon, due to the majority of fruit being tested for a wide range of smoke taint levels.
Not interested in spending $300 for a bottle of 2020? I don’t blame you. Smoke taint can significantly decrease the quality and age-worthiness of the vintage. However, some of the most challenging vintages are a testament to the winemaker’s skill, and the winemaker stands out when quality isn’t so desirable.
We always look forward to watching the Chefs’ modified recipes to hide or highlight desired nuances. Maybe aging in specific vessels, a neutral or heavy toast, depending on how much make-up you like on a ? , pair it with smokey barbecue, and maybe some s’mores.
Never to be taken for granted, this sacred land is truly what makes this place amongst the most special on earth and still in its infancy; now is a crucial time to protect particularly some of the larger interlopers that are benefiting from the “terroir.” The land is perfect. We have to appreciate the details.
Knock on wood or a bottle of oak-aged wine…we hope & pray for Sans smoke harvest. Thankfully the majority of vintners are more than 1/2 way through a promising albeit lean Vintage.